BOULUD SUD - 20 W 64TH ST

"TO the list of terrific Daniel Boulud restaurants in Manhattan, add this Lyonnais chef’s first significant gesture toward the sea that laps at the South of France and Spain to its west, then stretches across to Africa and east to the Levant. Boulud Sud is the Manhattan equivalent of a private yacht anchored off Monaco, serving the food of Sardinia, Greece, Tunisia, Gibraltar, Beirut. And you are invited along.

Here are sardines marinated in slick oil and pungent vinegar, with toasted pine nuts for texture and white raisins to bridge the sour and sweet. Iberico ham with grilled pan con tomate — a dish seemingly made of time and water and sun, happy pigs and spitting fires. Beautifully charred squid with bits of chorizo and a tumble of Swiss chard, with tapenade for salt. Spiced duck wrapped in pastry, with date chutney: soft and rich. Harissa-fired lamb, tender and grassy, with yogurt sauce and Algerian eggplant.

Just add a glass of rosé from Bandol, and “War Horse” at the Vivian Beaumont to follow. You can always come back after for more, or for a hot dog at Mr. Boulud’s new Épicerie Boulud on the corner, next to Bar Boulud, where come to think of it you might also go, just to score a frisée salad and a glass of Côtes du Rhône. Forget the boat. Stay in New York City."  -Sam Sifton, New York Times